Machu Picchu WITHOUT a Tour Company

Ever since I started planning, thinking about and doing this trip I have had trouble figuring out what to do about Machu Picchu, the ancient spiritual capital of the Incan empire. It appeared that I was going to have to book an expensive, 4 day/3 night tour trip, and I was prepared for that. But then something happened that changed my perspective on the whole tour company thing. The first full day I was here, as I mentioned, I went on a guided horseback trip with the Argentinians. But there always seemed to be something - the guide would surprise with a new wrinkle in the trip we weren't anticipating - usually something annoying. Luckily, after we got back, we were walking with a guy who works at the hostel and he told us of the 'screw the tour companies' way of doing Machu Picchu, the way that the government officials and tourist operaters try to tell you is too dangerous so you'll buy their overpriced trips. Before I describe it, just a quick anecdote from two nights ago, our last night in Cusco before embarking on this crazy trip. We were in a supermarket buying some last minute snacks when an orthodox looking man walks in to do some similar shopping. He was standing right behind me in line so I managed to get a real good look at him, at which point I decided that not only was he orthodox, he was a Rabbi. As we were walking out of the store I decided to ask him where I could go for Shabbat. Turns out, oddly enough, he wasn't even Jewish! I think the Kippah confused me. I had gotten in touch with the Chabad here but, disappointingly, they are in Israel until March. Anyways, he did know quite a bit about the Jewish presence in Cusco and was able to point me in a general direction, so when I get back tomorrow morning I'll go on the prowl.

The next morning we awoke around 7 to buy a few last minute things and then take a cab to the bus terminal, Terminal Santiago. We soon found out that 'terminal' was far too generous a word. All the official, legitimate buses were full until late in the afternoon and we really had to get out of Cusco early since we were anticipating quite a long day. Eventually we managed to band together with a bunch of Chilean kids, forming a bit of bargaining power, and renting a van for the 10 of us (it was a 9 person van). The following 7 hours consisted of bouncing around the most ridiculously windy and undermaintained roads you can imagine, but at the same time it was one of the most beautiful and exhilirating experiences I can remember (plus, one perk of being tall - South Americans are generally small people so they automatically gave me the front seat for the entire ride). The van first took us to Santa Maria where we had to jump into another van headed towards Santa Teresa and, eventually, this thing called the Hidroelectrico. After lots of haggling and bickering, we finally arrived at the Hidroelectrico, some sort of electric station, where a train track towards Aguas Calientes, AKA Pueblo Machu Picchu, the town from which the last leg of each and every Machu Picchu expedition commences, began. We had been told that this was the coolest part of the trip - the unguided, 2.5 hour walk along the train tracks (don't worry Mom, the trains were done for the day) to Aguas. It took quite a while but when we finally arrived we were ecstatic. It got dark about halfway through the trek so we made full use of our flashlights. The town is a cute, yet overly touristy place and yet we were somehow able to find a hostel room for 4 bucks a pop.

The next day (which is now this morning) we woke up at 4:30am to buy a bus ticket up to Machu Picchu. We had been planning to walk this leg of the trip but it's a pretty hard walk and we wanted to conserve our energy for the actual mountain. We managed to get up to the entrance at 6am and had to immediately run to the other side of the ruins to get our passes to Wayna Picchu, the mountain part of Machu Picchu, for which there is a daily, 400 person limit. After getting the tickets we embarked on our tour of the ruins. The place is a lot bigger and a lot more beautiful than you'd imagine. It's incredible how well these ruins have been preserved - the Incas were awe-inspiringly sophisticated for theirs or any era and their architecture, construction capabilities and creativity are all astounding. When I get back to Cusco I'll try to upload the pictures somewhere and I'll let you know how to see them - I took so many pictures so set aside a nice chunk of time! You'll be happy you did. Unfortunately, it started to get really hot and I decided not to partake in the Wayna Picchu part of the experience, which entails an extremely steep 1 hour hike each way, during which, our guide explained, seven people died last year. My Argentinian buddies are better men than I, however, and climbed the mountain. While they were up there I decided that I had had enough and made my way down back to Aguas Calientes, from which I am writing right now. This whole experience has been incredible - I had been dreaming about visiting Machu Picchu ever since Mr. Dobrick taught us about it in 10th grade history class, and now I can officially say I have done it. I'll be honest, though, and say that the site is swarming with tourists, even though this is the supposed low season, and that partially diminishes the experience. Either way, I'm glad I did it and now I'm ready to head back to Cusco and continue on with my trip. I'm not sure if I want to go to Arequipa or to Puerto Maldonado. The former is a beautiful city in Southern Peru and the latter is the closest major place at which I can visit the Amazons. Two radically different options, and I can only do one (that's not actually true, but it sounds much more dramatic that way). If anyone knows or has any input, I'd love to hear it! Otherwise, I'll check in soon with some pictures!